Indra Shekhar Singh 
The alleged mixing of animal fats in ghee used at Tirupati Temple shocked the nation. No one asked a simple question: If ghee was being contaminated on such a scale, what was the national food safety regulator, FSSAI, doing?
The entire mandate of the Food Safety & Standards Authority of India is to prevent food adulteration. But it seems they are way behind the curve in preventing food contamination of any kind. Forget street food, FSSAI has repeatedly failed to curb adulteration at all levels including big corporates.
This fact is recognised by state governments too, hence Uttar Pradesh brought a special law against contamination of food with human waste. One would imagine if a state government has had to bring a special law in 2024 just to enforce food hygiene 101 this clearly indicates that the FSSAI has failed to curb food adulteration in practice and principle.
Also read: UP to Bring in New Stringent Law Against Contamination of Food With Spit, Human Waste
Let us look at some other instances. Reportedly the UP state food inspection team caught 400 kgs of stone powder being mixed in flour in Aligarh. Stone powder is a waste product from mines and stone processing factories and often times contains highly toxic substances which may cause stomach trouble and even cancer. This was one such instance. Imagine how many more greedy mill owners are working round the clock to poison our rotis.
But its not only stone powder, our food is adulterated with urea and paint for many years now and governments have pushed the issue under the carpet. When we look at the case of milk adulteration, the trends have only gone up. From ghee to sweets, India uses a lot of milk. But if the milk is contaminated can we expect the ghee and other products to be safe?
Inflation, scarcity and greed have prompted farmers and traders to use chemicals like urea to dilute milk. Whether we look at Punjab, Gujarat, Odisha, Maharashtra, etc. it is clear that milk there is highly adulterated and governments have failed to prevent this. The hormone overload in milk products is another major problem in India.
Adulteration of milk sweets during Diwali and other festivals has become a local trend each year. Experts have pointed out improper enforcement lies at the heart of this problem. There are many examples from Modi’s Gujarat where, in the last 15 days alone, contaminated food worth Rs 6.3 crore was seized. It is difficult to estimate how much more contaminated food is floating around the country.
Now moving from the unorganised sector to big corporates. The biggest name of course is Nestle, that was reportedly selling Maggi with excessive lead in it. What penalties were imposed on them? Were millions of Indians who are Maggi during this period ever compensated? The issue is very serious as children are big consumers of Maggi and lead poisoning during childhood could seriously hamper their neurological health. But like most corporates, the polluter here escaped fair punishment.
More recently, about 800 kgs of spurious tomato sauce were seized. The fake sauce has formalin, synthetic colouring agents, arrowroot powder, etc. Keep in mind that most tomato sauce is made by big and medium scale factories, which are all regulated under FSSAI, yet due to gaps in enforcement they are being allowed to contaminate the food they produce.
When we look at FSSAI’s performance in checking adulteration in spices, it is safe to say FSSAI fails all tests. Common household spices like chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder, etc are heavily contaminated with cancerous materials like ethylene oxide. The EU has has also raised serious concerns about chilli powder and peppercorn from India. Even big brands like MDH and Everest are under scrutiny for mixing carcinogenic substances. Many Indian spice consignments are rejected each year from the USA, EU and other developed countries due to their toxicity.
Still, the FSSAI and the government are shying away from punishing the culprits and saving the health of Indians. Spices are an everyday item of consumption and many ailments are also treated with these household spices. If manufacturers are allowed to sell adulterated spices, public health will be a major casualty.
The last instance of FSSAI’s questionable scientific position I will talk about is the cottonseed oil. Contrary to scientific studies, the FSSAI allows for free blending of GM cottonseed oil in all our food and vegetable oils. They treat GM cottonseed oil the same as natural cottonseed oil. This is wrong on many fronts. First, it is allowing for GMOs to enter our bodies through oil even though India doesn’t allow GM food crops. Second, instead of insisting on true labelling, FSSAI is duping the consumer. It is taking away our right to know if our food has GM ingredients or not. In most EU countries and other developed nations, cottonseed oil will either not be allowed to enter their food systems or will carry a clear warning or label indicating that a particular food item has GMOs. The FSSAI brushes the issue in a haughty manner, playing to the GM lobbyists’ tune. If one analyses the biosafety documents for BT cotton at the Ministry of Environment and Climate Change, we find they are based on Monsanto data and the safety data is also provided by Monsanto and FSSAI has not conducted any tests to verify biosafety independently.
So, in many parameters from ghee to spices to edible oils, the FSSAI has failed to be effective and work in the interest of consumers. The price of FSSAI’s inefficacy is paid by all of us. It is time FSSAI takes its mandate seriously.
Indra Shekhar Singh is an independent agri-policy analyst and writer. He was the former director for policy and outreach at NSAI. He also hosts The Wire’s agriculture talk show, Krishi ki Baat/Farm Talks. He tweets at @indrassingh.
This piece was first published on The India Cable – a premium newsletter from The Wire & Galileo Ideas – and has been updated and republished here. To subscribe to The India Cable, click here.