The car crosses the right banks of river Mekong as the evening falls. The mist settles on the sleepy town. Eateries and shops selling trinkets have pulled their shutters down. Under the setting sun, a tall statue of the Buddha keeps an eye on the activities, though his eyes seemed half closed. Yes, this is Chiang-Rai, Thailand.
Chiang-Rai is famous and infamous. It’s one of the corner countries of the Asian Golden Triangle, with Laos and Myanmar on the two other corners. China’s Yunan hills can bee seen far away, with naked yes.
Years ago, when the Vietnam war was in full swing, Americans needed money for their informers. Seeing poppy culture similar to Flanders poppy in Europe, the Shan province of Myanmar grew, producing opium. The Americans were losing heavily to the Viet-Cong army. They were forced to retreat in the mid ’70s. The Chinese mafias under the Mao regime took this opportune moment to seize the drug market. It became so powerful that the CIA coined the name ‘Golden Triangle’ and drugs from that region made and broke governments. The Golden Triangle, and specifically Shan State of Myanmar, is believed to be the largest methamphetamine producing area in the world (modest sized geographic area with highly concentrated production).
Today, here, there is some tourist flow, but one can’t see a lot of people around. At the confluence of Ruak river and the giant Mekong, a small island pops up. I asked the boatman, who was doubling as the guide, he waved his hand and tried to warn me away, as if it were somewhat like a no-go zone. The patch of island belongs to Myanmar.
The region’s drug production and trade continues. In 2022, there were some distress calls from an Indian from a geographical location around Hoxa, which falls on the opposite bank of Mekong in Thailand’s Chiang Rai district. India’s external intelligence agency R&AW along with the embassy staff in Vientiane, Bangkok and Yangon with the help of local intelligence rescued the Indians trapped in a Special Economic Zone as bonded labourers. They had been promised jobs, but that was a way to con them into joining a web of cybercriminals.
From the times of Myanmar’s junta dictator Than Shwe to the current regime run by another junta, senior generals continue to support the business of narcotics. Since the US has put a hold on trade and Myanmar has been economically sanctioned, the business of narcotics brings profits for the junta and its civilian supporters.
Asia’s widest road in Myanmar’s capital Napitaw. From here, the junta runs the country as drug money flows in.
Asian Highway 2,
Dragon fruit and durian sold on the highway to Shan state in Pyno Lyn.
Lorries driving along Shan state under the eyes of the Junta and Chinese intelligence
Shan State’s Muan Tan is the region that produces the most opium in Myanmar.
Shan valley in Taunggy.
Tatmadaw, the Myanmar army, keeps a vigil but the drug trade happens as usual and gets to the Asian Golden Triangle for further transport.
The border area with Myanmar and China is busy with trade and opium is among the important sources of revenue.
The mountains of Shan State in Myanmar, with China beyond the hills.
At Bangla market, sex tourism draws crowds.
Boats belonging to Chinese groups for allegedly transporting drugs and human trafficking.
Chiang Rai road going towards Myanmar, crossing villages and rice fields, is among the smuggling routes to transport humans and drugs like opium.
Different countries’ flags are hoisted on boats.
The landing at Laos.
The lone island in the middle of River Ruak and Mekong.
The lower Mekong delta, where large-scale trafficking allegedly takes place.
A view of the Golden Triangle.
Shome Basu is a photographer and journalist.
