As per official estimates, 15 crore devotees have already taken a holy dip at the Kumbh Mela, and another staggering ten crore are expected to participate on the sacred occasion of Mauni Amavasya – which is considered to be the holiest dip in the Kumbh Mela and is also an important day in Hindu tradition to honour ancestors – on Wednesday (January 29). Curious about the arrangements for such a colossal influx, I decided to assess the situation myself. A pressing question loomed: Could Allahabad and the Kumbh administration handle 10 crore people in a single day?
A Republic Day expedition
On January 26, I ventured to Sector 18 of the Kumbh Mela, located in the heart of the Akhara region, where religious orders like Neem Karoli Baba and Juna Akhara had set up a camp. With travel restrictions kicking in from January 27, I aimed to explore before vehicles were banned, forcing devotees to walk long distances.
Even before the restrictions were imposed, traffic in Allahabad was chaotic, with mismanagement evident. Key entry and exit roads to railway stations, like Allahabad Junction, were blocked by police barriers, forcing pilgrims to walk. This seemed deliberate – perhaps orchestrated by the administration and their corporate contractor, Ernst & Young.
Devotees gather at the Kumbh Mela to participate on the sacred occasion of Mauni Amavasya. Photo: Indra Shekhar Singh
By January 27, the situation worsened. Police announcements urged people not to bring vehicles to the mela, citing security concerns tied to a VIP visit by Amit Shah. For over five hours, the mela was in lockdown. Internal routes were blocked, making both devotees and religious leaders walk extra miles.
At a tea stall, I overheard a sadhu lament, “Why can’t all the VIPs come on one day and bathe at one designated ghat? They’re using this mela for votes. This is pakhand (blasphemy).” Others nodded in agreement.
The devotees’ plight
A group of 25 pilgrims from Ranchi shared their ordeal of walking 15 km from Allahabad Junction to the mela grounds, luggage in tow. Women and children in their group struggled as the trek was unexpected.
In the market area, vendors of essential goods like butter, bread and milk were running out of supplies. Police blocked small vendors from restocking, while larger corporate suppliers faced no such restrictions. Many locals dubbed this the “Corporate Kumbh,” expressing resentment towards Ernst & Young’s involvement.
By evening, rumours spread that frustrated devotees had vandalised an SDM’s car, prompting the authorities to open two platoon bridges for public use. Determined to test the administration’s mobility plan, I prepared for the major event on January 28.
The journey to Sangam
At 5 am on Tuesday (January 28), I began the five-km walk to Sangam Ghat. The early morning crowds were relatively thin, but confusion was rampant. Several ghats on the Ganga’s Jhusi banks were falsely labeled as “Sangam Ghat”. Many devotees unknowingly bathed there, believing it was the holy confluence. I felt cheated on their behalf – traveling far only to be misled.
Near Kali South Platoon Bridge nine, a crowd of 1,200 had gathered, protesting blocked access despite valid permissions. Police cited “crowd management provisions” as the reason for closing all 15 platoon bridges. Eventually, after protests, the crowd was allowed passage at dawn.
At Sangam Ghat, the scene was chaotic but largely self-organised. After my holy dip, I followed a rally attempting to return via their designated route. However, they encountered massive waves of people heading toward Sangam, leading to yet another police blockade.
Near-stampede conditions
At Platoon Bridge four, the situation escalated. Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF) and Rapid Action Force (RAF) personnel, led by two IPS officers, aggressively dispersed the rally with batons, nearly causing a stampede. Despite showing permissions, the devotees were harassed.
Small traders selling tea and religious items were ordered to pack up and vacate the Sangam area. This unnecessary disruption raised questions: Whose convenience was all this chaos serving?
Devotees gather at the Kumbh Mela. Photo: Indra Shekhar Singh
IPS officer Anit Kumar eventually intervened, offering a semblance of relief by negotiating passage for the rally. However, the group was redirected to an overcrowded Bridge 13, creating further delays and frustration.
The VIP divide
While common people endured overcrowded bridges and endless blockades, VIPs had unrestricted access to other routes. This glaring disparity left devotees feeling like cattle, forced to suffer for the convenience of the privileged few.
By midday only bridge 13 was open. Some relief came by evening 5:30 pm when bridges ten and 11 were also functional and police cordons ensured the crowd remained heavy.
The reality of Kumbh 2025
The government’s grand invitation to the world for Kumbh Mela 2025 is starkly contrasted by the reality on the ground. Poor planning and administrative negligence are evident, leaving devotees to self-organise amid chaos.
Also read: The Politicisation of Maha Kumbh: Where Will It End?
This Kumbh exemplifies how common people and mendicants are sidelined for the sake of VIP culture. Narendra Modi’s administration appears more focused on hosting officials and publicity shoots than ensuring the safety and dignity of devotees.
By sidelining Uttar Pradesh chief minister Adityanath and outsourcing key responsibilities to Ernst & Young, the Modi government has made a critical misstep. A mismanaged Mauni Amavasya could not only lead to a tragedy but also cost the government dearly in public opinion. Moreover, if the common people are not treated well, it might end up benefitting the Opposition instead.
Let’s hope the event unfolds without mishaps because if it doesn’t, the people of India will know exactly where the blame lies.
Indra Shekhar Singh is an independent agri-policy analyst and writer.